In a bustling workshop in Kabul dedicated to carpet making, hundreds of women and girls toil in a confined environment with heavy and oppressive air.
One individual in this group is 19-year-old Salehe Hassani. “We girls no longer have the opportunity to pursue our education,” she remarks, her smile wavering. “Due to the prevailing circumstances, we have shifted our focus to the workshop.”
Following the Taliban’s takeover in 2021, girls aged 12 and older have faced restrictions on their education, while women have been excluded from numerous employment opportunities.
In 2020, the participation of women in the workforce stood at a mere 19%, a figure that is four times lower than that of their male counterparts. The figure has continued to decline under the governance of the Taliban.
The scarcity of opportunities, combined with the severe economic challenges confronting the nation, has compelled numerous women to endure lengthy and arduous hours of carpet weaving—one of the limited professions permitted by the Taliban government.
The United Nations reports that approximately 1.2 to 1.5 million Afghans rely on the carpet weaving industry for their livelihoods, with women constituting nearly 90% of the workforce.
Despite a 2024 UN report indicating that the economy has “basically collapsed” since the Taliban assumed control, the carpet export business is experiencing significant growth.
In a recent report, the Ministry of Industry and Commerce revealed that during the first half of 2024, more than 2.4 million kilograms of carpets, valued at $8.7 million (£6.6 million), were exported to various countries, including Pakistan, India, Austria, and the United States.
However, this has not automatically translated into improved wages for the weavers. Individuals interviewed by the BBC reported that they had not received any of the profits from a piece sold in Kazakhstan last year, which garnered a price of $18,000.
In Afghanistan, carpets are significantly lower, ranging from $100 to $150 per square metre. Faced with financial pressures to support their families and limited employment opportunities, workers are ensnared in low-wage jobs.
Carpet weavers report average earnings of approximately $27 per square meter, a process that typically takes around a month to complete. Workers earn less than a dollar a day, even as they endure long, grueling shifts that frequently extend to 10 or 12 hours.
Nisar Ahmad Hassieni, the head of Elmak Baft, opened the doors of his workshops to the BBC, revealing that he compensates his employees with wages ranging from $39 to $42 per square metre. According to him, employees receive their pay biweekly and work an eight-hour day.
The Taliban has consistently stated that girls will be permitted to return to school once their concerns, including the alignment of the curriculum with Islamic values, are addressed. However, no tangible actions have been implemented to facilitate this return.
Mr. Hassieni stated that, in the wake of the Taliban government’s ascent, his organization had committed itself to aiding those abandoned by the recent closures.
“We have set up three workshops dedicated to carpet weaving and wool spinning,” he states.
Approximately 50-60% of these rugs find their way to Pakistan, with the remainder distributed to countries such as China, the USA, Turkey, France, and Russia to satisfy customer demand.
At just 22 years old, Shakila works alongside her sisters to craft carpets in a small room of their modest rental home, which they share with their elderly parents and three brothers. The residents reside in the impoverished Dasht-e Barchi area, located on the western outskirts of Kabul.
Once aspiring to be a lawyer, she now runs her family’s carpet-making business.
“We had no other options,” Shakila states. “No other job opportunities were available.”
She recounts the moment her father introduced her to the art of weaving at the age of 10 when he was recovering from a car accident.
The evolution of a once-essential skill during difficult times has transformed it into a vital source of family support.
Shakila’s sister, 18-year-old Samira, dreamed of pursuing a career in journalism. Mariam, aged 13, was compelled to abandon her education before she had the opportunity to envision a future career.
Before the Taliban’s resurgence, all three individuals were enrolled at Sayed al-Shuhada High School.
Their lives changed irrevocably following the tragic bombings at the school in 2021, which resulted in the deaths of 90 individuals, predominantly young girls, and left almost 300 others injured.
The former administration attributed the attack to the Taliban, despite the group’s denial of any participation.
In a precautionary move to prevent potential tragedy, their father opted to pull them out of school. Samira, present at the school during the attacks, now faces the aftermath of trauma, exhibiting a stutter and finding it difficult to articulate her thoughts. She strongly desires to return to formal education and would do anything to achieve that goal.
“Completing my studies was something I truly aspired to,” she states. The ascendance of the Taliban to power has coincided with a notable improvement in the security landscape, marked by a decline in the frequency of suicide bombings. However, the schools remain closed. We must engage in this effort.
In the face of low wages and demanding hours, the resilience of some women remains steadfast.
During a recent workshop, Salehe expressed her determination and optimism, revealing that she has dedicated the last three years to studying English.
“Despite the closure of schools and universities, we are determined to continue our education,” she states.
Salehe envisions a future where she emerges as a prominent doctor, with aspirations to establish the finest hospital in Afghanistan.
